Puerto Rico

From Puerto Real we decided to make the run to Ponce.  We left at about six a.m., contrary to Van Sant’s recommendation.  The day started off beautiful, an awesome sunrise, nice calm waters, not much wind.  So, another motor sail day, eight hours and we’ll be done.

Not quite.  Rounding the corner at Cabo Rojo…and there was wind.  Oh yes, lots of wind, climbing steadily, and waves…now we are into it!  Might be a tad more than eight hours we’re thinking.  The waves and winds increased steadily.  There were a large number of fishing nets to be mindful of, and they are very difficult to see in six foot waves.  And of course, the crazy fishermen, miles offshore  in their sixteen foot or so open boats, bobbing up and down in the waves, very difficult to see  unless on the crest of a wave.

The wind and waves worsened.  It was turning into an unpleasant ride.  Not unsafe, but quite unpleasant.  Very fast moving freighters thrown  into the mix just added to the whole day.  And of course the pilot boats all around us with no apparent regard about their wake.  Pilot boats are the boats which take licensed marine pilots out to the freighters to bring them into the harbours.  By law, each and every freighter has to have a pilot on board when entering or leaving a harbour.  We were very happy to have our dodger and bimini, the waves were washing the deck and spray flying over the top of the bimini.  How many hours to go?  Geesh!  Should have listened to Van Sant by the looks of this.

Ponce – anchorage

We finally arrived in Ponce after completing one of those  trips that you’d like to forget.  Now, time to anchor and set up for the night.  Ponce Harbour is mainly a commercial harbour with a small anchorage for boats such as us located just outside of the Ponce yacht and fishing club.  There is a bit of a current here, and with the mooring balls taking up most of the anchorage, anchoring was a wee bit of fun.  Our friends from s/v Odin had hailed us to see if we were coming in to the docks, they offered to help us with our dock lines as there are no staff working on a Sunday…hmm, no staff working on a Sunday?  Interesting.  Beth and I had decided to anchor out, thanked Bonnie for her offer of assistance, and finally, after three or four attempts, got our hook to set.  Good for the night!  Yay!  We had a nice light dinner of snack type foods, and settled in.  Bonnie had called customs for us to advise them that there were boaters in the harbour to check in…us….and they said to call them in the morning.  Bueno!  Manyana!

The captain got some New chooz…. lookit those treads!!

Puerto Ricans love their music…and they love it loud.  The music never stopped…..not until about 3 a.m. or so…and just when I was sure it could not get any louder…it would!  Not a little either, at least 4000 decibels at a time louder…and louder..and louder.  Holy crap!  When is this going to end?  Morning arrived, and now the task at hand, to check in with customs.  I called the yacht club to request that customs visit our boat, which is what we were directed to do by  the customs folks on the phone the day before.  Van Sant’s book reiterated the same message.  So, I called the yacht club on the vhf, and was promptly told that they don’t do that, I would have to go in and make the call.  OK. directions received on how to get to the office, I hop in the dinghy and away I go.  Arrival at the office finds a nice serene setting….or so I thought.  I interacted with one of the staff, who informed me that there was a ten dollar charge to use the phone.  Ten dollars?  Really?  I hand over the cash, and the lady points at an old phone, red in color, located under a noisy air conditioning unit.  Aaah, the hot line….under a cooling device…..Bueno!  I make the call, and the officer tells me that I have to come out to the airport to see them.  Ok…and they hang up their end of the hot line.  I hang up, and I ask the lady how to get to the airport.  She replies…you have to move your dinghy, you can’t leave it here.  What?  I just paid ten dollars…..no, you can’t leave your dinghy at the dock.  Kidding me, right?  No, she says.  Would you like to move your boat into a dock?  I said to her….are you serious?  I was just ripped off for ten dollars to make a phone call, I can’t leave my dinghy at the dinghy dock, and you want me to move my boat into your docks? I don’t think so, in fact, I said to her, you can look out that window right there, and I’ll be waving at you from my boat which I have anchored for free.  Perhaps if you were a tad more considerate we would move into your docks, but we will not make that move now.  And out the door I went.

I’ll fast forward this a bit…..left dinghy at a dock where the manager even called a cab for me, and no charge to leave the dink.  Cab to the airport, into CBP, and out, with the cab rides $100 poorer.  Geesh!  Departed Ponce the next day, anchored o’night in a nice anchorage at Patillas.  Next day, a nice easy ride to a marina at Palmas Dal Mar.  AWESOME marina, we love PR.  While there we met some great folks who had just purchased a used Hunter 450 Passage, Malcom and Kim.  What great people!  We had two road trips while there, Beth and I went into San Juan where I purchased new deck shoes and sandals, and we spent another fortune at Worst Marine.  We also took a road trip with Malcom and Kim (aboard First Light), and obtained our exit papers from CBP.  Only $19 this time…..

First Light out for a fun sail

We departed Palmas dal Mar marina,

One last order of tacos before we go – Beef…..

…and fish – Mahi Mahi

and headed off to Vieques to meet up with one of our many buddy boats Vidorra.  We anchored out with them, and Beth and I really enjoyed their hospitality that night….grilled taters, and burgers and dogs!  Awesome!

Headed for Dinner on Vidorra

Our pretty girl in the setting sun – Thanks Vidorra!

Next day, we headed out for the BVI’s.  A somewhat bumpy ride, but a good one none the less.

yee-haw – ride ’em sailor?

We took some great action shots of each others boats, and cleared in at West End.  Very nice customs and immigration folks, and we walked out of there $52 U.S. dollars lighter, but good for a one month stay.

The Indians – from Norman’s

The next day, we sped off to the Indians, where we snorkelled, and then anchored for the night out in front of Willie T’s bar in the Bight at Norman’s Island.

Cleared into BVIs in West End, Tortola

The next day, off to Virgin Gorda, where we currently sit awaiting a weather window to depart to Sint Maarten.

Virgin Gorda Sound

Keep your stick on the ice!

Attempt #2-Finally Across The Dreaded Mona Passage

Attempt #2

Good Bye to Samana and the Dominican Republic!

I have already discussed attempt #1 at the Mona Passage, a dismal failure. With some fuel treatment added to the tanks, and having run the engine and generator, I felt confident that we were good to go, just needing a weather window. Our weather window arrived, and once again, we prep to leave. A visit from officialdom, same as previous, and we are released. But, it has been blowing a stink all day….are we going to have a go at this passage or anchor out for a few hours behind Bacardi Island and let things calm down? I refer to “we”, there are other boats going to make the passage as well, all catamarans. There is a Swift 51, a Lagoon 38 and a Seawind 1000. We all depart the marina and head east, directly into the wind and waves. Memories of attempt #1 flash through my mind, and I’m sure Beth’s as well. We slog on, and it seems to get a bit worse past Bacardi Island. We have passed the Seawind 1000 with our fellow Canadians on board. This catamaran belongs to a great couple from Prince Albert, Saskatchewan….lol..a sailin

We continue on, and Moorahme is not banging into the waves, but taking them on the nose in a nice, mannerly way. A few more miles, and it seems to be settling down some, as promised by the weather gurus, and I add on some engine rpm’s and our speed increases. We eventually reel in the big 51 foot cat as well, and we begin to pull away from the armada of determined sailors. Moorahme runs flawlessly, and the miles begin to add up, and the lights of Samana, and then, finally, the Dominican Republic fade in the distance. I breathe a sigh of relief, we are now far enough out that I don’t have to worry about running over one of the countless fishermen out far from shore in their sixteen or seventeen foot open boats fishing for their livelihood, some with a weak flashlight to point out where they are, and most without lights at all. Worries of running into one of them never really leave my mind. The pungent smell of a dump, or dumps burning, acrid in the air as leave the last of the DR.

We finally arrive into the Mona Passage. Here the Atlantic Ocean can really kick up a fuss…water depths careening from thousands of feet to hundreds of feet in an amazingly short time, which can create wave havoc. Storms off of the Puerto Rican coast add to the milieu, and winds from any which way including loose adding to the brew. But, this night the weather gurus are correct, we are plummeting along at 6.5 to almost 8 full knots with our iron genny purring along at 2400 rpm’s. Beth has bedded down, she does not do night passages well, and I carry the torch along in a somewhat singular fashion. Me, the flying fish, the partial moon, some clouds, and endless stars, the same stars which I have viewed so often before dipping down almost beside me in the cockpit. It is an uneventful night, I remain in radio contact with the other boats, who have faded off of the radar, but are still in radio range.

Sunrise in the Mona Passage

Morning arrives, and we are making excellent progress. Beth awakes and arrives radiant and happy above decks. We raise our headsail to steady out Moorahme as we have now encountered somewhat confused seas….like being in a washing machine. Moorahme calms down immediately, and our speed increases! Yay! Two big pluses! I lay down to rest while Beth takes over, and the miles add on, and on. A large island, Isla Deecheo, comes into view…hooray, Puerto Rico! We are navigating around the tip, and soon begin our way up the coast.

Isla Desecheo – in the Mona Passage

It has turned into a gorgeous day, clear skies, just the right amount of wind to be able to sail and not build up huge waves, life is good. We are having an awesome passage. A small chickadee like bird alights on our deck, and hops around. Into the dinghy, back out…we put out a cracker and some water. The little being eats and drinks well, and then hops off at the smaller island we pass off the Puerto Rican coast. Not even a g’bye the little shit!<grin> We are aware that another boating couple that we know are heading to the Dominican, Chris and Robin on Cerulean. I decide to try and hail them on the radio…and they respond! We exchange pleasantries, but are too far apart on the open seas to wave or moon each other..darn it! They fill us in on where to go, what to see, where to eat in Puerto Real, our stop for the day, or days.

Sunset – Puerto Real, Puerto Rico – successfully across Mona Passage

The officer takes all of our paperwork, passports etc., and gets to work. And then…he calls me over to the bullet proof enclosed wicket. He directs me to the adjacent hallway…where we meet to have a discussion. I have some bad news he says…I think oh great, here we go, he’s gonna kick us out of the country. But no, he is a much better person than that. He goes on to explain that our current U.S. cruising license has expired, and it was not renewed on the day of expiration. Yup, know that. Further explanation goes…you have to be offshore for fifteen days before we can issue you a new cruising license, and we were only offshore for eleven days. So…now we have a small problem…we can stay in the country, but now, at each different area as defined by blah blah blah, we will have to pay both an entry fee and an exit fee. Ok, no problem, right? Well, he says, hang on. It’s thirty seven dollars…each. Holy poop! Coodypoopers! Our neighbours for over 300 years and now they want my life savings! But, we don’t have to leave the country. And, oh, we have to have the exact amount, we have no cash to make change. LOL! OK…now we know the rules. There is a bank right across the street, I’ll go and get the exact amount while he completes the paperwork. Bueno! Muy Bueno! Like my Spanish? That amounts to ten percent of my Spanish speaking skills. That, and banyo…cerveza, yella and freayoh……my spelling sucks but check out how good I am at a foreign language! Woohoo!

Nako arriving at Puerto Real anchorage

So…I am trying to keep this short, but….across the street to the bank I go. I hold the door open for an elderly lady and follow her in. She looks at me nervously, and I wait for her to move aside so I can open the next door. Then I notice the metal detector I was standing in…and she is looking very nervous and talking excitedly in Spanish…but no words that I recognize. Hmmm…..she points at me, then points outside. I finally clue in…one person at a time only….so I exit outside, she enters into the bank, and I wait and do the same. Metal detectors, armed security, one person at a time…nice area! Wow. I get our funds, return to Officer Ramirez, and we go happily on our way. To streamline things, as this is getting too longwinded, we stopped at a mall and ate some Puerto Rican food, hit the grocery store…(I needed beer) and we returned back to the boats somewhat unscathed but much lighter in the pocketbook.

 

More to come!

Keep your sticks on the ice!

 

 

Holy Week in Samana

Holy Week in Samana

Downtown Samana

Beth and I went into town with our new dock friends Mike and Martha/Heather from s/v Layla. We were all interested in viewing the outdoor market, and obtaining fresh produce. We merrily hopped into the rental car, Mike at the wheel, and away we went, right into downtown Samana. We passed homes with bars on the doors and windows, pigs tied onto hillsides, and more scooters and motorcycles than I have ever seen in my life! As it was in Puerto Plata, it appeared that there we no rules of the road, pass on the right, pass on the left…hell, pass anywhere you feel like it. Three, sometimes four persons on a scooter..the poor ol’ two wheeler just screaming as we would pass by the, some coming…some going. Close your eyes and hope that everyone survives…keep that seatbelt on tight!

Downtown Samana is built on a hill, and you pass a variety of dirt floor stores on your way down to the central part of town. Stop at the bank to hit the ATM, and hey, just park In the street on the inside lane, no problem. Others will get around you the best way they can. We dug some money out of the instant teller at a Scotia Bank..and we were off once again. Down around the harbour area, where the cruise ship patrons come into town…a ton of empty store fronts, a milieu of traffic and people. We did a Michigan left turn and headed back up the hill, and parked the rental on the side of the street not too far from the market.

The Market

The market…if you like fresh…or what at least appeared to be fresh chicken, there was an ample supply. Laying on the street on a piece of dirty cardboard, bare open to the hot sun, remember it is 80 plus degrees Fahrenheit, some of it covered with more cardboard, most of it covered with house flies. Oh yeah…same thing for the fresh fish….total gross out….I’m not buying any of that product, and neither is Beth.

The vegetables are not quite as bad, but there are cockroaches and other forms of bug life mulling over the potatoes, carrots and lettuce…oh my goodness, wouldn’t the government agencies back home be freaking out. Little, very old ladies cutting up fresh coconuts, offering shredded coconut, plantain, or other products that I could not identify. What an eye opener…the house flies and cockroaches are still etched vividly in my mind’s eye.

We departed Samana, and headed off to a beach resort town named Los Terranos. Now, remember, this is Holy Week, and everyone, including their dogs, are off on vacation. Traffic up the wazoo, and we are running low on fuel. No problem Mike says, we’ll get some on the side of the road. On the side of the road…really? They have gas vegetables or what? Heck no, everyone and their dog sells gasoline in one quart or one gallon plastic jugs.

Gas at the side of the road!

So, we pull over and buy a couple of gallons of gas out of what appeared to be a plastic vinegar container…enough to get us to a real gas station. Ideal! Hell, beer and wine too if you want it.

Los Terranos is booming….music is pounding from speakers all along the beach, and we stop at a roadside area to check out the beach restaurants. We decide on a restaurant with a wood floor so that the sand fleas would not eat our legs or feet, and placed our orders. The food was pretty good, the beer much better, and the view awesome. There is even a pirate ship replica anchored offshore in front of the restaurant.

Thar be pirate!

Upon completion of our meal, we hop back into the rental car and head into town to the grocery store.

And it is a real grocery store! Aisles of air conditioned products. Meat, canned goods, fresh vegetables, wine, beer…hooray! We attempt to max out our credit card, but just barely fail with the products in the store. I have done minimal re-provisioning of my beer supplies, and at the check out line a lady behind us says…you must be Canadian. Beth and I grin and say, well, yes, we are, how did you know? Her reply was great…..I could tell by the amount of beer you have! LOL! They were from PEI…and we all know they don’t drink much beer out there!<grin>.

Groceries loaded up into the car, and we head home via a circuitous route to Samana.

Traveling down the highway.

It beautiful here!

Beautiful mountains, beaches that ran for miles….and of course check point Charlie where they had their hands out for money so that we could continue…the DR…yup!

Back at the marina, load up the boats with our groceries, and life is good again…for a few more days!

The crowds at the beach for Samana Santa ( Holy Week)

Presidente Grande and an itty bitty glass!?!

It is only when you get out and travel, and see the things that we have seen, that you really appreciate the food supplies that we are privileged to have. I wish we had more photographs to show you, but what we did see was pretty disgusting, and the views in my mind just won’t go away.